As far as I know, "Mid-State" was the only company that made this unusual size tile and they have been gone for some time now. I welcome input from others on this question. Armen Tavy

A couple of dozen tiles to repair rises a red flag. Twelve plus 12 can beget 12 more and so on. What is the problem, and if one exists don't repair something that is destined to fail. Give me more details to go on and I may be able to save you a lot of money and grief. In any case, the "Word is Out" and one of our many forum visitors may read your plight and come to your aid. Armen Tavy 

A single piece, as you are describing, can be fabricated in any marble shop. Many faux marble panels are made to replicate existing stone and a close match is possible. If you can sketch, make a drawing of the piece with measurements and take it to a shop to get a quote. It should be affordable, and a photo is essential.

You could also research a matching marble in a retail store and with one 12" tile you could cut 6 individual pieces; a top piece that is horizontal, and another vertical piece under it, with the factory side exposed. This vertical piece would be as thick as the tile on the deck and this can be accomplished by a “wet saw cut" or by grinding with a dry "diamond" blade. The front leading edge of the top stone can be bull-nosed or left square and polished (I would have to instruct you how). E-mail me a photo or two: spacerman@tavytools.com with a return address. I will make a sketch of my idea so you can better understand it. I would need a height dimension from the top of the "deck" tile to whatever surface you intend to terminate the overlap tile, include the exact length of the span. How about making a long narrow shampoo shelf to conceal the tiles? Even a seat. Another option is to locate a Cultured Marble Shop in your area and have them make a matching faux piece to fit over the deck tiles. I can't think of a place to send you online. Creativity is a natural born trait we have, so be creative!! Armen Tavy

Guess what? I bought the same tile and had some left over. I will check to see if the box is intact over the weekend, since it is at another residence I own. How much are you short? I just checked my unit and found that I have 3 sheets extra. Would consider selling 2. The name on the box is " Style Collection" 3 3/4" x 3 3/4" white octagon with black dots. Item # 7886, bar code # 6 940133 300025 (for single sheets) The distributor is in Clarksville TN.

Florim USA - Clarksville - TN

I hope this helps you, Armen Tavy

Call Dave at "Homax" Friday. If anyone has a product, it is "they". Dave Glen (pacific time zone) 360-733-9029 ext 1062, in Bellingham WA. If Dave is not there, ask for Sue or Donald.  Thet will be sure to ask you what the finish is on the wood floor. Poly-Urethane or a wax stain. The latter is easy to repair with stain and wax, and the first may take a professional floor finisher because removing the epoxy residue with any solvent will surely lift the hard finish on the wood as well.  I hope you have liability insurance, as you should, because it would make it simpler to call in a professional.  "Acetone" is a solvent for "fresh" epoxy, and since this is only residue from careless "feet", it may be thin enough to remove if you act quickly. Armen Tavy

If I was not retired and you could afford me, I could hand make any size of both with marble tiles. the end products were "beautiful" and unmatched in quality and looks by any store bought fixtures. 10 years ago you could have forced me out of retirement.  

Have you looked into Chrome or Brass metal fixtures? Some of them are quite large. "HalMax" is one brand I remember. A clever person could frame/outline your "holes" with ceramic or marble tiles and then install the fixtures. A cabinet maker or finish carpenter could do the same with wood.

Are there any takers out there? But, you have not told us what city or town you live in. There are many talented people in this field looking for extra work these days and one of them may browse this site tonight, and you could get "lucky". Give us more info here or use me as a "go-between" at: spacerman@tavytools.com   Armen Tavy

Wow! Now about 30 years ago I could probably do it in one day with a helper? The probably is in the equation because there is an unknown as to how the Backerboards were fastened and if they were cemented down as they should have been. A Makita Power Scrapper, although  the best small tool I know, is probably to small if you are concerned about "time", as is inferred by your question, in which case a Super heavy duty "Hilti" Brand Power Scrapper/Chisel could tear up that floor in a heartbeat, nails screws and anything else in its way. It would probably take longer to carry out all the debris. Two good men to demo and two "bulls" to carry the trash out = one day if everyone worked as a "team". Two the most, if you cannot "whip" the "team". Armen Tavy

There are many instances when "bond breakers" are present on the back of the tiles. Many tiles have "mold" release agent residue and "factory dust"on their backs. One good test is to rub the palm of your hand briskly on the back of a tile to see if any residue come off the tiles. If it does, those tiles should be "washed". Other times Mortar used to set the tiles may be beyond their expiration date of One Year Shelf Life and a few months after that in your home.

If there are "Lumps" of hardend cement in mortar bag/s, that is also a warning to "dump it" and buy new. Improper mortar mixing techniques can also cause problems, as will tiling over substrates that literally "Suck" the water out of mortar. Plywood is one as is Hardi-Backer that is not "wet" conditioned first. The "Sucking" of the water can prematurely cause scenarios like yours. Wet conditioning and then skim-coating these surfaces before tiling can help. Always allow the skim-coat to dry and then skim again "to prime and liquify" the surface just before spreading the setting bed. Never spread more mortar then you can tile over in 10 minutes or so. Check the top surface area of the mortar with a finger to see if there is still enough "tack" to allow at least 85% mortar transference to your tiles. 

On occasion, "Pop" a set tile with a screwdriver  to see if you flattened the mortar like a "hamburger press" instead of "setting" the tile. Mortar that was stored in hot, humid, or damp surroundings can also "fail". One (or more) of the latter is the problem but I can't tell which one(s) from Florida. If you are replacing these tiles, do a patch test first. Sorry for your pain, but as you see, there are many important "IFs" when you set tile.  Armen Tavy

Shame on him. Some rental yards have 4" angle grinders that hold a 4" dry "diamond blade". This tool revolves at 11,000 rpm, so be careful and wear eye protection. It is quick and fast. Cant rent and want to buy?; brand new, $19.95 to $89.95 and may or may not include the blade. Harbor Freight, Northern Tool Supply, Lowe's, the Depot, etc., or look for on line sources. Major mfg., DeWalt, Makita, Bosh. Armen Tavy

I wish I knew what you are talking about, because I did not know there was "a study" on either subject. I do know that in "Foreign" lands, tile is a mainstay that becomes part of the home and is rarely changed. Localy (in America) "we tend to get tired of the old" and "want the new". Now your feasibility question I can understand. Tile is stronger, cleaner, and easier to maintain when compared to any other kind of floor covering and that conclusion does not need "a study".  Armen Tavy

You did not say why you are removing the old tiles. Was there a problem or did you just want a change? If you are careful removing all the old tiles, you can install new tiles over the old DuRock. However, if the previous installer did a proper installation, salvaging the underlayment will literally be impossible. If the tiles come up easy without ruining the DuRock, then you will benefit from the previous installers shortcomings. If you want your new installation to last, please follow industry guidlines when re-tiling. If you want to know what they are, just ask.Armen Tavy

When I hear of poor workmanship it is a disappointment to me as well, and there is no excuse for it if you ask for and then check 3 references, as you should. It is difficult to access how difficult it will be to remove the tiles. Much depends on the whether the person with poor workmanship also is not proficient in getting a good bond to substrates or the back side of tiles. The tiles may come up easy but the mortar may not, or you may be lucky, well not really, and the mortar may come up with the tiles. In any case, I would assume that the same installer would not do the next installation.

There are certain tools that make this job easier and the main one I recommend, if a hammer and chisel does not work well, is the “Makita HK1810” Power Scrapper. Cost varies with the retailer from $360 to $400 and worth every dollar in the time and effort it can save.  If the installer is willing to remove his inept work, then it is his problem. If this same installer waterproofed your shower pan, I would make sure the weep holes are functioning and conduct a “leak test” before retiling. Need more help, just write again. Armen Tavy

You can tile over tile, with the right products, if you have the room. How you will terminate the new tiles so the old ones cannot be seen at the perimeter edges of the installation, must also be considered. A test patch of "Liquid Latex Modified Mortars" would have to be done with an overnight application. If it is very hard to remove (scrape) the next day, then you can tile over tile with this product, or you can use a product like TAVY "Thin-Skin" Tile Underlayment to assure a proper bond without an overnight test. The 2" tiles on the floor of the shower are best tiled over with the Liquid Latex Modified Mortar (test first). The drain cover and screen must be raised with a drain extender called "Extend-O-Drain" (look for both items on line). Measure the diameter of your drain screen cover (center to center of the 2 screws) and order the appropriate size. Remove all evidence of “soap scum”. Armen Tavy

Kitchen n do not require a lot of grout and some installers refuse to understand the importance of pre-mixing the dry contents of a grout container before using part of it for these smaller installation. If this is not the cause then it could be that the installer diluted the grout color with to much water in the mix as well as too much water in the grout "washing". If the color of the grout in the "wet stage" was initially darker, when applied "wet", and then dried "whiter", the above scenarios are more suspect. The age of the grout could also have a bearing on your disappointment of the final shade. BUY brand new grout, mix the dry contents thoroughly before adding water and try one last time. Do not make the grout "soupy" (make it more like mayonnaise) or use too much water in the sponge when washing. Armen Tavy

If the plywood is Douglas Fir, then a "Liquid Latex Modified Mortar" will work, if not, you could use cement backerboards or tile underlayment membranes like, Schluter Ditra Mat, Protect Wrap, TAVY "Thin-Skin", or most other name brands. Travertine Tiles need an experienced Travertine Installer, with a good reputation. Armen Tavy